Wine

July Harmonisations

Wine is one of our country's greatest legacies and an undeniable ally of our gastronomy. Just as Portuguese recipes highlight our roots and tell stories about places, their people and their products, so wine farms, with their centuries-old vines and barrels that have lived longer than we can count, teach us a lot about the territory, about science and, above all, about the evolution of Man. Regarding the immeasurable love for the land and leaving aside certain regionalisms, there is a feeling common to all those who gather the fruit of the Gods' nectar from the vines: the constant search for perfection.
 
O Paparico is an assumed lover of Portuguese culture. It is through it that we express ourselves and from it that we drink our creativity. Sometimes metaphorically, sometimes literally. The process of choosing our harmonizations goes through moments of tasting, delight, reflection, research and (a lot of) study. In order to achieve the perfect pairing, our sommelier Fernando Mansilha combines the flavour notes and history of each creation with the wines he presents.  
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The Vinho Verde Tinto, of Minho origin, was served in a bowl and aroused a clear admiration from our diners for the contrast between the rustic presentation of the wine and the elegance of the creation. Illustrious for its "paint-lips" effect, it was the choice of sommelier Fernando Mansilha to harmonize with the Octopus Rice "Malandrinho" Style, one of the highlighted creations in the month of July. Thus, it was in this region of Northern Portugal that we discovered the link between tradition in the world of wine - due to its origin - and on a gastronomic level - due to its abundant consumption of octopus.
 
Strictly speaking - without neglecting what was said previously regarding the starting point of our inspiration - the recipe referring to this delicacy has already been elevated to the Lusitanian category, detaching itself from its static belonging to any territorial extension. For this reason, we have brought together, on the same plate, dishes of a different nature which exalt and pay tribute to octopus in Portuguese.
 
In the opinion of our sommelier, this creation combined the freshness of the sea flavour with some rusticity of its own elements. This last characteristic, which found a point in common with the wine selected, was balanced by the acidity present, typical of green wines. "I chose a red wine of a loaded colour, with structure, to accompany the complexity of flavour of the octopus. Behind the first notes of fruit, we find a slightly earthy - rustic - ideal to accompany the black garlic flavour of the dish. It finishes with good acidity, which combined perfectly with the creaminess of the rice." - clarifies Fernando Mansilha.
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To accompany the iconic Red Mullet "à Setubalense" with Crustaceos and Corn Porridge, was chosen a wine which, in the words of its producer is "the preciousness of tradition in a bottle". The 2006 Chitas Reserva comes from the "Malvasia de Colares" grape variety and is characterised by its fruity freshness. Its strong cultural and traditional component particularly pleased our sommelier when making his selection.
 
The creation combined two maritime proteins - mullet and lobster - indisputably noble and intensely flavoured. The strong palate of the dish was reinforced by its sauce, which was made from fish livers. The logic assumed by our sommelier for this pairing was to present a complex white wine, but which also demonstrated a slight sense of the sea. As Fernando Mansilha explains "the oxidative notes give the wine a complexity that marries impeccably with the intense flavour of the sauce, as well as its acidity meets the citric note of the dish, giving a refreshing finish at all times.".